DAY 1 (23-5-2007)
As usual, clearing immigration at Jakarta Airport had its own thrill and adventure. The officer demanded some “oleh-oleh” (gifts) referring to money from both Shahrul and I. We pretended not to understand the meaning of the request. Shahrul even indicated that we would certainly buy some “oleh-oleh” on our return trip. Tired of our pretense, the officer asked bluntly for some Rupiahs. We just told him we had not changed the currency yet. He asked for Ringgits. We bluntly told him that we were not about to give any money. He gave up and let us through. Welcome to Indonesia!
We were met on arrival by Pak Ambo, our tour guide and Pak Sofian, our driver. I got to know both of them from our previous trips to Indonesia. We were driven straight to our first golf course, Riverside Golf & Country Club located in Cimanggis, Cibubur, Bogor. We decided to stay and play in Bogor just to avoid Jakarta’s traffic chaos. We had, during earlier trips, spent many hours getting stuck in the jam.
We reached Riverside just in time to tee off at 1.30pm. As we were unloading our bags at the club house we realized that Zack’s clothes bag was missing. He must have forgotten (what I normally teased him as having his “senior moment”) it at the airport when everybody was busy with a lot of bags to carry. Each of us carried a clothes bag, a golf bag and a carry on bag. He had no choice but to buy whatever things needed to enable him to play golf.
Playing at Riverside was a true challenge. This 6536 yards (from blue tee) par 72 course designed by Greg Norman was never boring. The course was well maintained, the greens were undulating and difficult. We could reach the greens in regulation but 3 putts were common. Except for the scores, we had a very satisfactory introductory first game in Bogor. As in most other courses in Bogor, the caddies were pretty and good at their jobs. Anak, my caddy, was no exception and without her help, my score would be horrendous.
Greg Norman got a double par at this challenging hole. I tripple boogeyed.
This above average golf course had one setback. We stopped at a drink hut for a few drinks and snacks. We missed our lunch and Shahrul was uncomfortably hungry. For 3 bottles of mineral water (for the 3 caddies), 2 Gatorades (energy drinks), a can of nescaffe and 2 boiled bananas we were charged Rp 220,000 (RM88). Even at the best and most expensive golf course in Malaysia, that kind of a treat wouldn’t cost more than RM30. It was a slaughter house. The tough course took tolls on our scores. Zack, Shahrul and Ayob reported above 100 scores while Shah and I barely managed to get 98 and 99 respectively. Shahrul also had a bout of flu that was bugging him for the past few days.
On the way back to our hotel we stopped for dinner at a Sundanese restaurant called Pondok Bambu Kuring. The food was good and we really enjoyed our meal probably due the fact that we missed lunch. After dinner, we decided to shop at Giant for some groceries (energy drinks, fruits and snacks) for tomorrow’s game. We felt cheated by the exorbitant price charged for refreshment at Riverside and did not want to go through the same experience again. Then, we proceeded to check into our rooms at Novotel Coralia Bogor . I shared room with Zack. By 9.30pm, we were already asleep. So much for Jakarta night life!
DAY 2 (24-5-2007)
We were up by 5am. It must be due to the early bed time and longer sleeping hours. Everybody was really looking forward to playing at Klub Golf Bogor Raya , famous for its pretty caddies.
This is the golfing mecca for Malaysians.
No Malaysian golfer would miss playing at this club while in Jakarta. It is widely known in the golfing circle of the high standard imposed by the golf club in selecting its caddies. It worked for business. The golfers keep coming back. 
They are pretty and they are good caddies.
The golf course itself was ranked as the 4th best course in Indonesia by Golf Digest Indonesia in November 2003 and won the Indonesian Tourism Award in 2006 as “the best service on golf”. This 5970 meters (from blue tee) par 71 course was designed by Graham V. Marsh. 
18th Hole, Bogor's signature hole.
Its locker room looked exquisitely grand set in true Balinese style. It boasts as the largest in Indonesia with 242 lockers. Of course, you could find pretty girls everywhere; pro shop, drink huts, restaurants.
We were joined by a Malaysian friend, Masri who works in Jakarta. I played a good round of 43 for the 1st nine helped by my beautiful caddy, Yune and good putting. I managed to chip in a birdie from the apron and sunk several long putts. I wish I could do the same for the 2nd nine and ended with a 92.
Yune, my caddy.
The course was well maintained and the workers were extremely friendly. The greens were a lot easier and flatter compared with Riverside and other courses that we played after. Anyway, we got good companies.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant called Restoran Bale Kabayan. The food was ok. We were scheduled to play 36 holes today. So we proceeded to Sentul Highlands Golf Club . It was previously known as Mentari. I decided to take shower when we arrived at Sentul Highlands just to refresh myself before the next 18 holes. This 6041 meters par 72 course may not be as famous as Bogor Raya (at least to Malaysians) but it was nevertheless very challenging.
Sentul Highlands' caddies.
We were perplexed by the small plots of paddy field flanked by the 15th and 16th holes. We came upon an “island” green on a par 3 hole surrounded fully by bunker designed to wrap around the green. We had a hilarious time on the green of 17th hole. I inadvertently gave out several big farts as I was putting for par and I holed the putt. The caddies were reeling with laughter and called it “par kentut” (fart par).
We had dinner at a restaurant called Bakul Bakul. It was not as good as the restaurant the previous night. Again, the 36 holes of golf in a day took tolls on us. Zack and I went for a traditional massage at our hotel and it was not that good. Zack was already asleep as I was writing my travel stories and soon I followed suit. It was barely 9.30 pm.
DAY 3 (25-5-2007)
It was 4 am and I was already wide awake. I stayed in bed trying to force myself to sleep. By 5 am Zack was up and I decided to get ready for another round of 36-holes golf. We looked forward to playing at Rancamaya Golf & Country Club since we heard so much good comments on the club but never played there.
Rancamaya's 1st Hole tees off from an elevated position.
Rancamaya is a private golf club for the Jakarta’s elite. Somehow, our travel agent managed to slot a space for us to play. Later, we discovered that the club is now affiliated to our club in Malaysia, Staffield Country Resort. Playing at Rancamaya in the future would be easier.
As expected, it turned out to be a class of its own. The course was well manicured and maintained. It was not as crowded as the others. The fairways were quite narrow at some holes and the greens were real killers. They were small, undulating and definitely tricky. Somehow I lost my swing this morning and struggled most of the time with my shots. I managed to post a score of 96. Each hole carried its own name such as Volcano for Hole 1, Terraces for Hole 2, etc. It was a truly satisfactory experience to play at such a magnificent course.
You got to go under the water fall to get onto the 9th green.
On the way to the next golf course we stopped for lunch at a restaurant called Warung Gumati. The service was slow and the food below average. It was Friday prayers time and Pak Ambo excused himself to go to the mosque. We boarded Masri’s car to Bukit Pelangi (Rainbow Hills Golf & Country Club). To get to the club we drove on meandering rural road which by Malaysian standard was very small.
Bukit Pelangi Golf Club is located in the hills of Desa Cijayanti, with a very scenic rural backdrop. This 27 holes-course was designed by J Michael Poellot Group. We tested the 5895 meters par 72 eighteen holes and they were full of challenge and troubles. The greens were undulating and 4 putts were strong possibilities. I was paired with Shah and Masri, the 2 long hitters in our group. Fortunately, I managed to get back my swing. After 2 holes and several solid shots from the 3 of us, my caddy was asking whether we were single handicappers. I told her to wait for the score and see for herself.
Bukit Pelangi's Club House at the back of this magnificent hole.
The 463 meter par 5 hole 4 is listed in Jeff Barr's “1001 Holes You Must Play Before You Die”. I hit into the fairway bunker and hit another bunker out of the first. The fairways branches into 2 and dogleg left reaching a small elevated green. I got away with a double boogey.
One of the 1001 holes in the world you must play before you die.
The par 5 Hole 13th was another memorable hole. The straight fairway breaks to the left by crossing a pond. After a good drive, you have the option of putting it on in 2 for an eagle try. That was what Masri and Shah did. Masri’s shot found the pond and Shah managed to get on the green in 2. I just lay up before sending my 3rd shot into the greenside bunker. Both Shah and I par the hole.
We decided to go back to Bambu Kuring for our dinner.
DAY 4 (26-5-2007)
We checked out from our hotel rooms and by 8.30 AM we were on our way back to Jakarta. Shahrul wanted to go to a place selling imitation leather products called Pasar Ular. It turned out to be more of a run down bazaar in make shift huts of a shanty town. There were some good leather stuffs and I bought 2 pairs of “branded” shoes.
Next we went to Mangga 2, a famous shopping spot in Jakarta. Ayob wanted to get a telekung for his wife. This place was a lot better than Pasar Ular and the items on sale were reasonably priced. At least we had air conditioning. I bought Hard Rock Café t-shirts to add to my collection. We had lunch at a nearby nasi padang restaurant.
We made our way through the traffic jam to Jakarta Airport. Our flight was delayed by almost an hour.
After so many trips to play golf in the region, golfing in Jakarta is highly recommended. Head straight to Bogor and skip staying in Jakarta. You may miss the night life but you can play more golf. Like other places it has its pluses and minuses.
+ The courses are all well maintained with their own characters.
+ The club houses are luxuriously designed, huge and the locker rooms are grand.
+ The caddies are very pretty, professional and not demanding but can be playful.
+ The courses are well patrolled by security guards. Each hole has at least one guard stationed there. They also look out for your balls in case of errant shots.
+ The weather is a lot cooler in the high lands of Bogor.
+ The hilly area is very scenic
- There are peddlers of all sorts (golf balls, fruits) at the tee boxes.
- Drinks and foods at the club houses and half way huts are ridiculously priced. It is a good idea to bring your own.
- The authorities at the airport like to demand for pocket money. Try to ignore.
- Jakarta is a heavily populated city. Traffic jams and congestions are quite normal.
Whatever the minuses, I would still come back for more golf in Jakarta.
3 comments:
Pak, absolutely correct (3x) about golfing in Jakarta/bogor. In every sense of the word, its an inexpensive golfing vacation. As i live/work here, i have managed to play at most of those golf courses. There's a new 18-hole in Jakarta area, Royal Jakarta (Halim 3). A tight and tricky course, well manicured and caddies are mostly ex-KGBR. Have fun. Alan.
Pak kamnan,
I googled to your blog-space and didnt realized that i kindaof knew the writer. Yes those photos confirmed the guy, who was once the KING of pool at the student center of WMU. We exchange hp # but i have since changed numbers. We met at one clubhouse (couldn't remember which one) and u were on the way to the next course, for your next 18.
I enjoyed reading your blog, great writing skills. When in Jakarta, give me a buzz. For my new hp #, email me please.
ALAN, jakarta. 21/4/08.
hello pak. im planning a trip to jakarta for golf next month. i wonder if anyone know if we can walk-in to play in royale jakarta? is it also open to public? and whats the fees? thanx for the info to anyone who can help me.
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