Kuala Gula, Perak, MALAYSIA

September 29, 2007


It was another “balik kampong”, going back to our village, for the weekend. It happened to be on a Saturday of the fasting month of Ramadan. I decided to venture out to a place called Kuala Gula.

A fisherman returning home

Kuala Gula is located at the estuary of Kerian River, about 50 km from Taiping. From the old Taiping – Butterworth trunk road turn left at Simpang Empat traffic light. The signboard says Kuala Gula is about 25 km from there.

It was a leisurely drive on flat lands. The area along the road is mostly planted with oil palms. There are Hindu Temples indicating a sizable Hindu community in the oil palm estate. As the road comes closer to the sea, the names like Kampong Lean Seng suggest Kuala Gula is predominantly of Chinese community.
Cockle shells being dried on the road side

The place is pretty much a small, laid back fishing community. I hit a dead end after missing a left turn towards the Kuala Gula Resorts, a chalet type accommodation built at the fringe of the Kerian River. Even the police station operates from one of the houses in the neighbourhood. The resort is Kuala Gula’s main attraction. It was closed for the month.

The chalet at Kuala Gula

Kuala gula is also a bird sanctuary. Across the river from the resort chalets, I could see flocks of birds including eagles hovering above the mangrove forests. At the small jetty by the chalet, there were a few fishing boats moored. Some people came to buy fishes, some fishermen were packing up, calling it a day and some kids were playing inside the sampans.

Fishermen calling it a day

Bakau (mangrove) logs being unloaded at the charcoal factory

On the way back I stopped at a place producing charcoals. There were 2 hut-like factories with 4 to 5 kilns each. I was told by a worker that they belong to 2 different owners.

The logs stacked and ready to be roasted

Producing charcoals from the mangrove logs is a tedious, hot and stuffy job. Each kiln takes about 1 month to complete the job producing about 10 tons charcoals each. The workers just have to make sure to keep the fire burning for the 1 month period. Then, there is a cooling off period for about 10 days before the charcoals are sold off to middlemen at about 80 sen per kilogram.

The kiln at work

The charcoal end products take the shape of the mangrove logs when they are sold. They are then cut and packed for export. The ones sold at the local sundry shops are rejects, so I was told.

Rogue Airports of SOUTH EAST ASIA

I had a nasty experience with the United States immigration officials at Los Angeles airport during the height of the American war on terror. I was stopped and questioned for more than 2 hours. I asked the person who took my photo, told me to smile and finger printed my 2 thumbs “Why me?” The officer answered matter-of-factly, “You are a Moslem and you come from a Moslem country.” They gave me an SN number on my multiple entry visas. It means that I will be subject to the same 2 hour welcoming reception that I went through every time I come to the United States. That would be my last trip to the "land of the brave & home of the free".
LA Airport, officials treat Muslims like terrorist suspects

In South East Asia, the brushes with airport officials came in different contexts. At least here they don’t discriminate you for your religious beliefs. Instead, you are treated like a visitor, with a lot of loose changes. The airport officials welcome you with open arms and open palms.

Polonia Airport in Medan, Indonesia is top of my rogue airport list. I had been to Medan on many business trips and weekend golf escapades. Medan is ideal destination for Malaysians given the short flight time, favourable exchange rate and same language. However, the officials at the airport including porters, airport workers and drivers were truly out to make some quick bucks. The immigration officers normally would hit visitors on return flight.

On one of my trips, an officer pulled me into a room just to ask me to leave any leftover Rupiah that I had. He was about to stamp on my passport, looked as if something was amiss and ordered me to follow him into a room. He only let me go when I pretended to call the Malaysian Consulate. Once, I parted with a few hundred bucks just to enable my already properly documented maid to board the plane. The harassment went all the way to the boarding hall until I told them that I only had enough money left to pay for my taxi from KLIA to my house.

The “daylight robbery” started the moment you walked into the airport. I remember on another trip I was carrying a golf bag in one hand and a luggage in another. I held the air ticket dangling from my mouth walking towards the check in counter. I wanted to make doubly sure that no porter or tout would grab my bags and demand for payment later. Instead, one guy just snatched the ticket from my mouth and went on to check in for me. He charged me Rp25,000 (about RM10) for his efforts.

The immigration officials at Soekarno Hatta Airport in Jakarta had a different thought. On my most recent trip to Jakarta, the officer queried whether I had any “oleh-oleh” (gift) for him. I pretended not to understand him and told him that I would definitely get some “oleh-oleh” on my way back. Then he started to find fault and asked for my return ticket. My traveling companion kept the one page Air Asia print out with all our names on it. After seeing this, he became direct and asked for some Rupiah.

During an earlier trip to Jakarta, one porter grabbed one of our golf bags as it was coming out from the scanning machine near the exit door. We had no choice but to let him carry to the waiting transport about 20 feet away. I gave him Rp5,000 (about RM2). He just flashed the money into my face and asked “Apa ini?” (What is this?), referring to the tip as meager and miserable. In Thailand, I would get a big, grateful “wai” and “kop kun kap” for that amount. Not wanting to create a scene, I paid him more for the task I didn’t request.

Surabaya’s Airport officials were equally mischievous. A returning maid told me of how the officials “detained” a bunch of Tenaga Kerja Indonesia (Indonesians working in Malaysia) including herself until almost midnight just because they refused to pay Rp100, 000 (RM40) each.

Surabaya Airport

I would rank Bandung and Bali as the best Indonesian airports when it comes to not getting fleeced. When we were at Bali’s Airport, I told my family members to hold tight to our luggages. The porters were polite enough to ask whether we needed any help with our bags. The aggressiveness found in Medan, Jakarta and Surabaya were conspicuously absent. The Balinese were more polite. My tourist guide told me that Bali was heavily dependent on tourists’ dollars; they would not do anything to jeopardize that.

The officials at Diosdado Macapagal Airport in the Philippines were equally mischievous. The former American Clarks Airbase was converted into low cost carrier terminal for visitors to Manila and the Philippines. Air Asia and Tiger Air fly to the airports regularly bringing an influx of Malaysian and Singaporean tourists as well as returning Filipino workers.

Clarks Airport, the Philippines

The modus operandi has been the same during my last two trips to the Philippines. On my return flight after formalizing immigration’s procedure, we had to go through final security check. Somehow the security scanning machines would not be in working order. The officials had to go through our bags. Anything of interest would be demanded as souvenirs. Once I had to part with my only Saigon Hard Rock Café cap to get away from the check point. On another occasion, the officials managed to frisk out the leftover Pesos I was carrying. They bluntly asked for some. I refused to hand over my money, PhP9,000 is still quite an amount to me. They even asked me to buy them liquor from the duty free shop.

I had been to other friendlier airports in the region. Bangkok is still the best in terms of welcoming tourists. I am not sure about KLIA. As a returning citizen, I am always proud to be greeted by our ultra modern airport and hassle free immigration and custom checks.

Pasar Ramadan, Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA

September 13 - October 12, 2007

Scene inside the pasar

It’s that time of the year again! We are having some sort of a fiesta, all over the country. The Muslim’s fasting month of Ramadan is here. Pasar Ramadan (Ramadan bazaars) sprang up every where.

Otak Otak

I would imagine that in the Chinese Hungry Ghosts Festival, the ghosts must be real hungry. In the pasar Ramadan scene, it is the hungry people jostling to grab whatever foods available. The place is jam-packed in the evening, after office hours.
Vegetable section

The goodies on sale at the bazaar range from traditional to modern. There is a wide array of cooked foods like chicken, beef, fish and vegetables for the busy city folks.Tepung Pelita

Cookies and cakes are the favourites. Dates are a must. So are the fireworks and firecrackers, despite the ban. Every body is in a festive mood.
Trays of goodies

Fasting in a hot climate can be real thirsty. There are various drinks to choose. They range from soy bean, fruit juices, sugar canes, cincau, len chi kang and the list goes on.

Stacks of Fruit Juices

Ayam Percik (Marinated chicken)

One hot item is the ikan bakar, the grilled fish. Somehow, the word grill is lost to the abundance of cooking oil used in grilling the fish. It may as well be fried fish. They are the more pricey goodies. My estimate calls for more than 100% profit margin. Sure can’t blame the sellers. The people are very hungry indeed. They will buy anything. Everything looks good when you go without food and drink for one whole day. After all, it is once in a year thing. People don’t mind.
Pari Bakar (Grilled stingray)

Earlier, I made a vow not to splurge on the foods from the pasar this fasting month. It went well during the first week of Ramadan. Thereafter, I can be seen with throng of hungry people snapping up foods as if tomorrow will never come. I am just one very tired, hungry and thirsty guy.

Golf in Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA

SAUJANA GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB
Malaysia’s No.1 Golf Course
September 12, 2007

Me, teeing off at Saujana

It was the day before Ramadan. We decided to play one last round of golf before taking a month long break at the country’s number one golf course. Saujana was the home of Malaysian Open for many times. It is the course many golfers will not miss to tee off.

I have never had a good game at Saujana, never break 100. The greens were real killers. Even if I managed to get to or near the greens in regulation, the slick greens would leave me with a frustrating score card. So much that I was beginning to love to hate the course. But I would never let a chance to play at Saujana slip by.

Zack, Wan Yaakob, Shahrul and I made up the foursome at Saujana on the eve of Ramadan. We started at the Palm Course. Saujana has two eighteens, Palm and Bunga Raya. The Palm Course is known as the Cobra for its testing and challenging layout. It’s undulating terrain, fast greens humbled more golfers than the other course.

Hole 2, a 172 yard par 3 (from blue tee) is listed in Jeff Barr’s 1001 Golf Holes You Must Play Before You Die. It is rated as the most difficult hole in the country. Somehow, I managed to get a boogie here after hitting a good shot from the tee.
One of the 1001 holes you must play before you die!

We played the second nine at Bunga Raya Course because the Palm’s second nine was closed. I was having a better round here compared to the Palm. The only mishap was at Hole 15. I reached the two-tiered green in regulation but four putted for a double boogey 6. The first putt went all the way downhill. The second putt was short, the ball rolled back to where it started. It would remain as one of my most memorable putts. Shahrul finishing the round. The club house is in the background.

Golf in Batam, INDONESIA

September 8 – 9, 2007

On Friday, September 7, we put up a night in Johore Bahru (JB) at M Suites Hotel located along Jalan Skudai fronting Danga Bay. We were to catch the morning ferry for a weekend golf escapade to Batam, Indonesia the next day. This time, the trip was with a new group of acquaintances from Kuala Lumpur. We called ourselves Kelab Golf Mana Mana (KGMM) headed by Datuk Iskandar, a prominent figure in the Foreign Ministry.
Kelab Golf Mana Mana founding members: Me, Ashri, Zainal, Datuk Iskandar, Datuk Ayob, Hamidon, Zack, Darwish, Norman, Haji Amir

There were 16 of us, including spouses, one child and 10 golfers. We were met on arrival at the ferry terminal by Daud, the manager of a travel company in JB. He would be our guide during our stay in Batam.
All aboard! Departing JB. Darwish, Norman & Mrs (Kamsiah), Zack (L to R)

It took sometimes to load bags and stuffs onto the ferry. There were a lot of passengers, mostly Indonesians carrying a lot of things, going back for the weekend. We had to carry our golf bags and clothes bags all the way from the parking lot to the ferry. It was quite a distance but everybody was in a holiday mood. It took almost 2 hours to get to Batam and it was a bumpy ride.
Nasi Padang before hitting the golf trails

After clearing Immigration, we had our lunch, ‘nasi Padang’ at a place called Pak Datuk. It was a hearty lunch with plates of food arranged in piles on top of each other, typical of nasi Padang (Padang rice). Padang is an Indonesian city in West Sumatra.
Southlinks Club House from the 9th. Hole

We headed straight to the first golf course on our tour schedule, Southlinks Country Club . I was paired with Darwish and Hamidon. We started at the 10th. tee box while the other 2 flights went to the 1st.
Threesome at Southlinks: Darwish, Me & Hamidon (L to R)

Southlinks is a flat course with pockets of ponds and lakes traversing the fairways. It is known locally as the Japanese course, catering to the many Japanese expatriates in Batam. I managed to hit an average round with 5 pars. My flight finished the 18 holes ahead of the others. We had our showers while waiting for the rest of the group.
Southlinks' flat terrain

We had dinner at a western Javanese restaurant called Pondok Batam Guring. It had the usual fete of Sundanese food with fried ‘gurami’, a local fish, the highlight of the menu.
After dinner, a member of the group, Haji Amir informed us that the t-shirts meant to be distributed to the KGMM members were missing. We had a hard time trying to figure out where the bag of shirts was last seen. Finally, six of us decided to trace them back to the ferry terminal, a more likely place to have left them on arrival. It was almost 10pm. Luck was on our side. The ferry terminal authority kept the bag of shirts.

Batam Hills Club House under construction

We had an early date with our next golf course, Batam Hills Golf Resort. We had breakfast at around 5.30am. It took about 40 minutes to get to our next golfing destination. Everybody donned the KGMM t-shirts for the day and we took group photo before the start of the game.
The foursome at Batam Hills, Me, Haji Amir, Darwish & Ashri ( L to R)

I was paired with Haji Amir, Darwish and Ashri. Haji Amir was clearly the better golfer. I just made up the number. I had a strong start but lost steam along the way. I seemed to have good tee and approach shots but struggled around the greens. It was an embarrassing round for me.

Haji Amir on a par 3 tee box

Batam Hills was a better course compared to Southlinks. It got character. Except for the club house which was under construction, the course was well maintained. They even provided complimentary breakfast.
Daud, the tour leader ushering the group to get inside for a good lunch at Mak Ateh

We headed to Batam’s more famous Mak Ateh, for lunch. It was another heavy meal of sumptuous dishes of nasi Padang, piles of them. Between Mak Ateh and Pak Datuk, I think Pak Datuk is a better nasi Padang restaurant.

We still had about 2 hours before our departure. The group went for some last minute shopping for fruits and layer cakes.
Last minute shopping at a fruit stall

Batam’s golfing trip was very much different, in a way, compared to our other golfing excursions. Instead of flying comfortably, we had a ferry ride. Instead of checking in our bags, we had to lug around with them all the way to the waiting ferry. The golf courses that we played were not as good as those in Jakarta. Nevertheless, it was an adventurous weekend golf escapade.

Golf in Langkawi, MALAYSIA

September 5 – 6, 2007


Our trip to Langkawi was more on business. At least that was how it started. We went to check out a 25-room budget motel for sale. Of course we never leave home without our golf bags. It has been many years since I last set foot on Langkawi.

We rented a car after claiming our bags at the airport. Since it was still early, Zack wanted to check out the golf course at Datai Bay. Somehow fate brought us to stumble upon the very motel that we came for. It looked more like a run down brothel than a budget motel. I couldn’t see any window. It was padlocked and appeared abandoned. I remembered telling the owner that we were coming and asked him to book 2 rooms for us. He said ok after what appeared to be checking whether the rooms were still available. We’ve been had! We left the place in less than 2 minutes without even taking a closer look. No deal!

That, more or less, wrapped up the purpose of our trip.

We headed to Kuah town to pick up another friend, Sharif, coming from Kuala Perlis by ferry. After that, we drove along the road that passed another golf course, Gunung Raya Golf Resort. We stopped to check on reciprocal arrangement with our home club, Staffield Golf Resort. Everything seemed to be in order, we proceeded to Datai. It is located at the northern tip of Langkawi and took us about half an hour or so to get there.

Just before we reached the golf club, I saw a stall selling cakes and tidbits by the road side. From memory of my last trip in 2004 with an American friend, Matt, I knew it was the same one selling kueh keria, cakes made from sweet potatoes that I loved. They were delicious. We bought some and they were as delicious as before. That was our lunch.
Putting by the sea at Datai's 19th. Hole

Once we got to the golf club, we went to enquire at the reception. The green fee was RM350, buggy was at RM60 each and to play a round of 18-hole golf would cost RM383 each. That would be the most expensive golf round in Malaysia! A supervisor walked in, playfully greeted us in Thai with a warm “Sawaddee Kap”, a common way of striking conversation up north. I jokingly enquired in Thai whether the fees could be reduced. He called his supervisor and told him that we were from Thailand who wanted to play but the high fees turned us off. After some hard bargaining by Zack, we got away with RM300 for two. It was a good deal considering that the golf course is listed in Travel & Living Channel as 2nd best adventure golf course after Bintan Lagoon in Indonesia.

Zack teeing off at Datai

The Golf Club, as they called it, is built amidst the tropical rain forest setting. The course meanders around the jungle and at some places, the holes are located by the sea. One thing special about the course is they have one 19th. hole, other courses have only 18 holes. The par 3 19th is located at the edge of the sea.

Datai's Hole 19

The fairways were soft due to the rainy season. Otherwise it would have been an adventurous golfing session. Where else could you see a flock of hornbills while playing golf? I still believe that the fees charged were a bit too steep.

My favourite place, Tanjung Sanctuary

We checked into Tanjung Sanctuary, a chalet-like hotel that is top on my list of “Places You Must Stay Before You Die”. I stayed there before during my 2004 visit. The place is nestled in matured rain forest by the sea. The rooms are big enough to accommodate one family. I love the big balcony facing the sea. It was an ideal place to have a romantic rendezvous.

Tanjung Snctuary's pool surrounded by trees overlooking the sea

After breakfast we drove to Gunung Raya Golf Resort. The course was just average but the greens were in bad shape. It was like putting on sandy greens, a big turn off. The course was carved out of a former rubber plantation, mostly on flat terrain. It lacked the challenge of a well designed golf course. As we say in golf, the "Fear Factor" was conspicuosly missing.

Gunung Raya Golf Resort

We were hungry after checking out from the hotel. We drove along the beach to look for a place to have lunch. Most places were empty or closed. In Pantai Tengah we chanced upon a restaurant with quite a number of guests inside. We decided that the number of people having their meals was a good indication that the place was good. So, we joined the crowd. Half way through our meals we realized that the owner of the restaurant was giving a treat to his relatives and friends, a feast before the fasting month of Ramadan. We were truly embarrassed and apologized for inadvertently gate crashing his party. We didn’t know. We offered to pay but he flatly refused saying that we were welcome. We left the place, called Difiqa Restaurant, in a hurry after finishing our meals, thanking the owner and apologizing profusely. The meals were really good. Zack even had second helping.

One of those embarrassing moments in life!

We came to Langkawi during the low season. It looked dead at some places. Most of the hotels and restaurants appeared deserted. The island is a real gem waiting to be polished. It matches Phuket in terms of natural beauty but somehow remains a lost tourist attraction.

Golf in Melaka, MALAYSIA

Air Keroh Country Club

September 4, 2007

Again, Zack and I drove all the way to Melaka to meet our Singaporean counterpart and as usual, a round of golf. Unfortunately, this time, the maximum allowable foursome in a golf flight had an extra golfer. I had to back out to give way to our guests. Zack, Tim, Bill and Steve made up the flight. I proceeded on my own to test Air Keroh Country Club, an old golf course.

Air Keroh is a matured course. It is said to be affiliated to St. Andrews, the mecca of all golfers. It has 3 nines; Governor, Tunku and Ghafar. Caddy is a must. I had a Top Premier coupon that gave me free golf fee. Still, caddy and buggy charges came up to RM92.
The old club house

I started at the Tunku Nine. The cow grass fairways were quite narrow and lined by old trees. The greens were reasonably good and I had a good round. I wish I could say the same for the Ghafar Nine. The greens were mostly under repair. They were very small and temporarily carved from the fairways. Putting was a nightmare as the ball would jump up and down all the way to whatever direction it chose.

Typical hole at Air Keroh, cow grass fairways fringed by the jungle

The golf round at Air Keroh broke a couple records in a way. That was the first time in my golfing life I played solo. I finished 18 holes in record time of 2 hours. A normal round for a four person flight lasted more than 4 hours.

Mission accomplished
At least, I managed to add another golf course to my tally.

Flower & Garden Show, Putrajaya, MALAYSIA

August 31, 2007

The Flower and Garden show, Floria, was held at the Lakefront, Precinct 2, Putrajaya in conjunction with the 50th. Merdeka’s celebration.

A bouquete of carnation

Orchids

Orchids

Sunflower

Daisy

Pots of roses
You can find flowers everywhere.