Yogyakarta, INDONESIA

March 21 – 23, 2008

On the flight to Yogyakarta

We were met at Yoyakarta’s Adi Sutjipto Airport by our guide, Sofian and driver, Taufik. They would be showing us around Yogyakarta for the rest of our trip. We wanted to check into our hotel at Novotel Yogyakarta but the room was not ready. It happened to be a busy holiday weekend in Indonesia. The Prophet Mohammed’s birthday was on the 20th. (Thursday) followed by Good Friday and weekend. Most hotels were full.

We left our bags at the hotel and went to have our lunch at a restaurant in the Palace (Kraton) area. Somehow, I was not that crazy on the Javanese foods.

TAMANSARI (Water Castle)

We were taken to Tamansari on our first tour itinerary, about 1km west of the Sultan’s Palace (Kraton). Tamansari presents ruins, pools, arches, and underground passages of the former pleasure garden of the Sultan. It was built by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I in 1758 as a rest house and pleasure park for the royal family. It was badly damaged by earthquakes in 1867 and 2006.

At the Water Castle Entrance

We were driven past the Pasar Ngasem Bird Market. Sofian told us that birds are a must have in every Javanese household for prosperity and good luck. We walked from the main entrance into the forbidden pleasure garden.

The Harem's Swimming Pool

The place is divided into 2 complexes, Umbul Binangu (swimming pool complex) and Pulo Kenongo. The swimming pool complex was meant for the Sultan and his wives/women. It has 2 swimming pools, one for the harem and one for the Sultan and his chosen consort. A 3-storey tower with the Sultan’s private bedroom separates the 2 pools. Pulo Kenongo was built in the middle of Tamansari. It has underground passages, place of worship, dining room and other amenities.

View of the Harem's Pool from the Sultan's Bedroom

Sofian told us that in the old days, the Sultan would throw flowers to his harem from the tower. Whoever caught them would be given the pleasure of joining the Sultan in his private pool and keeping him company.

On Top of the Water Castle Ruins with Yogyakarta in the Background

The place used to be surrounded by man-made lake but now the place is encroached with housing area.

KOTA GEDE

Kota Gede, often called Sargede, is located about 5km southeast of Yogyakarta. Since 1930s, it became the centre of Yogyakarta’s silverwork industry. Ton and I bought some silver jewelleries. Sofian took us to a place called Dagadu, selling t-shirts with humour motif. We were introduced to his wife, who happened to be either working there or the owner of the place. We bought some shirts despite the steep price tags compared to other places. A good marketing strategy!

PARANGTRITIS BEACH

It started to rain as we made our way to Parangtritis Beach. It is located about 27km from Yogyakarta. There were rocky hills at the backdrop, dunes with volcanic black sands. Parangtritis is also a sacred place where people come for meditation. The traditional ceremony called “labuhan” is performed here.

Ton on the Beach

Anas stayed in the van with Taufik, the driver while Ton and I made a quick photo stop in the drizzle. On the way back, it rained very heavily. We stopped for dinner at a nice Javanese restaurant. The foods were a bit too much for us. After dinner we headed straight back to our hotel. I was so tired that I felt asleep almost immediately. It had been a long day!

KALIADEM

I asked Sofian to take us to Merapi Golf Club on the way to Borobodur. I wanted to check out the place before deciding to come back to Yogyakarta for golf. The golf club is located at the foot of Mount Merapi, very much an active volcano. I could not tell whether the golf course was up to par but the greens looked good. It would be an adventurous golfing trip.

The Family in Kaliadem

I wanted to see Mount Merapi from close distance. I heard so much about it I just had to see it up close. The weather had been cloudy and it rained most evening. So, we decided to go to Kaliadem earlier. Mount Merapi was still buried in clouds as we made our way to Kaliadem. Sofian told me that if our intentions were good we would be able to see Mount Merapi.

An Old Lady Carrying Cut Grass Across the Lava Field

Kaliadem was a famous recreation site before it was destroyed when Mount Merapi erupted on June 14th, 2006. The massive clouds of hot ash, the pyroclasts, descended on Kaliadem and destroyed the site together with a few people. It is still the best site to watch Mount Merapi from a close distance, about 6km to its summit.

Where the River of Lava Once Flowed

Kaliadem (means Cold River in Javanese), is located about 40 minutes drive from Yogyakarta. When we got to the place, Mount Merapi was heavily blanketed by clouds. We toured the area where lava flow and hot ash destroyed everything in their path. The ruins of houses and bunkers were the remaining evidence of Merapi’s fury.

The Lava Flow Destroyed Anything in Its Path. One Person was Killed Here

Since we did not have much luck with the view, we decided to stop for a drink at a makeshift hut selling refreshment to visitors. Anas had been complaining of being hungry. I had a mug of ginger coffee and 2 free range chicken eggs. The lady owner was telling us that there were lava flows emitted from the top earlier in the morning.

Sidewalk Coffee Break

Half way through the meals, Sofian was shouting at us to look at Mount Merapi. The clouds had cleared and gave us a good view of the mountain. We could even see the smouldering smokes coming out from the mountain top. What luck! Our trip to Kaliadem was not in futile after all.

We had good intentions!

BOROBUDUR
At One of the World's Wonders

From Kaliadem, we made our way to the top attraction of our visit, the Borobudur. It had always been my dream to visit as many Wonders of the World as possible before I die. It was high noon when we reached Borobudur. A local guide took us on tour of the monument.

Throng of Visitors Going up the Borobudur

There were a lot of visitors that day partly due to the long weekend. The guide took us around the monument bypassing the crowd. We went up the 10 levels of Borobudur.

From the less crowded side

This 9th. Century Mahayana Buddhist monument is located in Magelang, Central Java. It comprises 6 square platforms topped by 3 circular platforms and is decorated with 2672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues. Unfortunately some of the statues were headless. They were stolen when there was no proper security at the place.

Headless Buddha

A main dome is located at the centre of the top platform. It is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues seated inside perforated stupas.

Our Guide Explaining the Writings on the Wall

In one of the stupas, there was a Buddha statue said to bring luck to anybody who managed to touch the Buddha’s hand. We did not try to touch it, we were non-believers in stuffs like that.

The Stupa with the Lucky Buddha

On the 9th level

Anas & I with Buddha

Ton & Anas coming down the monument

In the Background is the Shape of a Person Sleeping. He was Said to Have Built the Bor0budur in One Day & was Dead Tired and Fell Asleep.....Until Today.

When we reached the top, Anas was already complaining of the midday heat. He was wearing long sleeve shirt. On the way back to the car, we were swarmed by vendors of all trinkets. They proved to be quite a nuisance.

Ton Being Harassed by the Vendors

A lady vendor who followed us all the way to the car finally broke down when I told her we were not buying her balsa wood fans. I ended up buying a dozen at about 7 times the usual price.

The Borobudur

PASAR BERINGHARJO

From Borobudur, we went straight to this popular market selling extremely cheap stuffs. According to Sofian, this place sells anything under the sun from A to Z. It was far too crowded and we were already too tired from the day’s itinerary. We also discovered that the prices we paid for some of the souvenir stuffs cost only a fraction at this market. We have been had!

The Entrance to Beringharjo Market

MALIOBORO STREET

After some rest at the hotel, Sofian gave us some choices for dinner for our last night in Yogyakarta. Bakmi Kadin sounded too good to be missed. According to Sofian, the noodle was served to President Suharto’s guest during his stay in town. To me it tasted just like our instant Mee Maggi.

After dinner, we went for a stroll along Malioboro street famous for its street vendors and night street food. The ‘warong lesehan” is where people have their meals by sitting on the floor. Again, the place was crowded with visitors. After buying a few stuffs that we did not actually need we went back to our hotel.

KRATON

At the Kraton's Entrance

We checked out early, around 8.45am in order to get to the place selling local biscuit called “bakpia”. Sofian wanted us to have it fresh from the oven. However, the place was jam packed with people waiting for the freshly baked bakpia. It is a biscuit with green beans filling. I loved the taste. We decided to skip the long queue and bought from the shop across the street.

The Gamelan Hall

We had about an hour before we had to go to the airport. We decided to visit the Kraton, the Sultan’s Palace. It is a walled city within a city with luxurious pavilions and in which the current Sultan resides.

Inside Kraton

The Kraton is Yogyakarta’s main attraction. It is located between Winogo River and Code River. It was built by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I in 1755. It houses a collection of gamelan music instruments, antiques and heirlooms. It is now the dwelling place of the current Sultan Hamengkubuwono X.

Inside Kraton

Inside Kraton with Our Guide

Sofian with an 80-year old Relative of the Present Sultan. He Collects Stamps & I Promised to Send Him Some

After a short tour of the palace, we left for the airport. Yogyakarta is one place that I would recommend to anyone to visit. We may come back for more.